Q&A With Jessica Neumann, Designer of Jessica Catherine Clothing Line

Midwestern designers are few and far between. Milwaukee has a few talented designers here and there; Chicago has even more. (Do they ever—Chicago hosts the Gen Art Fresh Faces in Fashion show every year for the express purpose of showcasing Midwestern designers). But Madison? Where art thou, designers?
Madison-based designer Jessica Neumann is changing that with her clothing line Jessica Catherine. Her classy, yet sexy, line of silk party dresses was showcased recently at Atticus, Kristin Wild’s store on the Square. I must admit, I have a personal bias toward Neumann’s line—I wore one of her dresses to this year’s Best of Madison! I spoke with Neumann on her budding design career.
(Shown up top: Myself with Jess, the designer, in front of two of her dresses at her Atticus event. All dresses shown below are also from her Atticus event and are there currently.)

Tell me how you got interested in designing.
I was thirteen years old, and I started using my mom’s sewing machine. I would cut up old clothes I had and make it into new stuff. Whatever fabrics were around the house or clothes I didn’t like anymore, I would just change them. When I was younger I was always creating my own style and expressing myself.
I always liked clothing, and as I got older, I always wanted to change [my outfits].
I started making clothing because a good friend of the family and a person I looked up to got me into it. Now I work with her on projects. We’re working together, designing, right now.

What is your design background?
[My] schooling is a big part of how well my garments are made and the techniques I use. But most of my experience comes from jobs I’ve worked in as a seamstress. [Up until recently I] worked at Creative Energy. I was one of three seamstresses there. I made energy efficient window treatments.
[A few years ago] I moved to Ireland and was organic farming. [During that time] I found online an artist residence called Das Sproutbau (http://sproutbau.blogspot.com/2008/02/rubble.html). It was a four-week sustainable living experiment for designers. I had to explain what my project was going to be for an installation for a documentary. So how I was going to recycle and design a live-in installation. When I explained my project having to do with fashion, they accepted me.
When I worked at Das Sproutbau, I collected fabric around a condemned building and other pieces of plastic, hung all of it on a wall and painted it. I then took it down and used that piece to build a collection of dresses for a fashion show in Germany at Das Sproutbau.
I came back [here] and was looking for a project to work on. I wanted to work on something to benefit breast cancer. That was when I came across Milwaukee Fashion Week. I started designing dresses for my interview [for Milwaukee Fashion Week]. I applied, was accepted, and made eighteen dresses that would be ready for the runway show. I was prepared, but then the event was canceled. (Ed’s note: Milwaukee Fashion Week was scheduled to take place in Milwaukee October 3–6, 2008; organizers canceled the event due to lack of funding).
The organizer told me that my line and designs had won the [new designer] contest; actually, I tied with another designer. I never got a prize or anything, but I was told I was the winner!
The Milwaukee Fashion Week experience was a massive learning experience for me. I accomplished so much in that time, and it made me realize what I was capable of. It’s exciting to see what good things can come out of it.

What are your design inspirations?
Texture is a big part of it. Modernism is, too. I like modern clothing with simple lines.
I wanted to make party dresses that make people feel good when they’re wearing them. But also, [I want] people to feel like they have a special dress. I haven’t seen work like it. I want a woman to feel really good about herself when she wears one of my dresses.

What is your trademark? How would someone know a piece is your design?
It’s modern clothing. When you look at my line all together, the colors are very similar, and [so is] the structure of the dresses. There are about five [dresses] that are made of the same fabric but in different colors. And the way they are draped is different. I use dupioni silk and silk chiffon.
I also try to put some sort of recycled element in each piece if possible. I’ve used pieces of old wedding dresses for accessorizing a dress. I’ve taken pieces from old bridal dresses and used them to embellish a plain black dress. I use recycled zippers.
I like to add a certain element that’s little out of the ordinary to something that’s very sophisticated to make it more unique.

Why do you think women like your clothing?
They like that it’s silk. And they like the high collars on some of the dresses. Women like to show some skin, but still feel confident and covered up. And having a dress that makes you look sexy but not too revealing is really attractive. You can also wear my clothing from season to season. It’s nice to have piece like that that you can wear all of the time. And you can wear it with tights or boots or with heels. That’s important here because we have the change of seasons.

What designers are you inspired by?
I like this brand called The People Have Spoken (thepeoplehavespoken.com).
Another big influence for me is Andrea Crews. It’s a project that takes place in France. It’s a group of people who take in all of these recycled clothing and have exhibitions and fashion shows out all of these recycled things. It’s high fashion, but it’s out of the ordinary. (Photo: Kristin Wild, owner of Atticus, with Chris Berge, co-owner of Weary Traveler, Natt Spil and Magnus)

What’s the process of designing a dress or a line for something like a runway show? It must be a lot of work.
Well, I’ve found people who want to work with me and can do the same things skill-wise, so we work as a team.
I had a few friends who helped me out with the line. Basically I drew up a pattern. I had the pattern and the fabric ready, and then I explained to them how I would like the dress made. I worked with talented seamstresses and they know what they’re doing. There were two or three dresses that friends helped me with for Milwaukee Fashion Week.
In general though, all of the work is done by me. I’m excited to work on projects with others, but they have to be as skilled as I am too.
(Photo: Do you recognize that dress on me? That's right, that's Jess' design that she's wearing in the photo above! L–R: Myself, visual artist Angela Richardson and Madison Magazine editor Brennan Nardi).

How long does it take you to make one dress?
To make one dress, it depends on the fabric. Everything is timed in my workroom. A simple dress can take me two days, or about twelve hours.
Something that has a bodice, texture, boning or a different fit, or in general more tailored, will take closer to a week to be fully finished.

What’s the next big project you’re working on?
I just launched a line with Atticus. I hope that works out. I’d like to launch a spring line as well as do some work on Kristin’s [owner of Atticus] website.
I’m trying to keep the cycle going of new ideas and new outfits. My spring line will be a little more casual for summer, but still edgy and sophisticated. It will be casual enough to wear to work, but you could wear it out at night too.
I’m also designing some bridal wear for a photo shoot in Chicago Social magazine. It’s for a spring or summer issue.
This summer I’m going to do some more bridal dresses. There’s also a large possibility that I’m going to the Netherlands to design a dress for a woman there. I’m excited to be working on bridal wear. I like making party dresses (laughs).

Formalwear and recycled/sustainable accents in your designs seem to be quite different!
I want to stay somewhere in the middle. I’d like to keep doing formalwear while still accessorizing or adding embellishment with recycled materials as well. I think it adds a nice touch. Part of using the recycled elements gives me the experience of going to thrift stores and rummage sales and seeing what’s out there. I’m very inspired by vintage clothing.

What’s the best part of being a designer, and the most challenging part?
The best part is that I get to make something with my hands and I can work on it anytime I want. I can always put it down when I don’t feel like doing it too. It’s great to take a walk and then be inspired by something. I really enjoy it. It’s a job, but it’s also something I love to do.
The biggest challenge is deadlines and production. I have new ideas constantly. I think, ‘Oh, I’d love to make that.’ Or, ‘I wish I had this fabric.’ It’s a matter of having priorities and knowing what I can make. There are things I’d love to make, but I don’t have time right now. Certain things can take months to create!

Many designers have a very distinct personal style. What’s your personal style?
It’s constantly changing, like my designs. I love Miss Sixty for shoes; their boots and shoes are really cool.
I wear a lot of simple, black clothing. I like wearing something simple but pairing it with great shoes. It’s all about the shoes! If I can wear a dress out, I will. That’s probably why I make dresses, because I wish I could wear them all of the time!
Speaking of shoes, I should probably get more (laughs).

Do you see yourself designing full-time in the future?
I see myself pursuing design very seriously. If I have a chance to move, or do international work, I’ll take it.
Ideally, I’d like to design full time. My goal is to work as wardrobe coordinator for the film industry, wherever that will be. Hopefully what I’m doing now will build my portfolio and show what I’m capable of. Sometimes you just have to accept where I am right now. There are a lot of things coming up that are to my advantage. I’m just going to work with them and see what happens.

Jessica Catherine’s designs range from $195–$350 and are available at Atticus, 18 N. Carroll St. 204-9001. jessicacatherine.com

New Shopping Content!

We all know everyone's crazy about their dogs. Whether you've got a Lab, greyhound, poodle or anything in between, our December issue is for you. So I hit the streets for the best in dog outerwear. After all, our furry friends need to stay warm too!

Check out the Style Sheet page (above) and behold our four adorable dog models. Behind the scenes our "models" were quite un-diva-like; after all, they'd do anything for a treat!

Our photo shoot went like this:
-Each dog came in separately with their owner. The dog would be unclipped from their lease and then they ran around the studio like crazy.
-We let them burn off some energy running around, then got down to business. We got them dressed and posed them against our white background. Then each model was asked to sit, lay, stand sideways, stand sideways the other way, stand on their hind legs, et cetera. After each of them calmed down, they did great!
-The owners prodded, cajoled, and rewarded their pup with treats. Our photog snapped away and got some really great outtakes, seen on page 34 of the print magazine.

Do you see why I love this job?

Also read my column this month on Liz Perry's Nutzy Mutz and Crazy Catz store on Lakeside Street. A haven for passionate pet owners, Perry makes each customer (and their four legged pals, of course!) feel right at home.

Stylemaker Q/A: Matt Jelinek

Frustrated about the lack of swimwear options in Madison? Matt Jelinek, swimwear manager at Middleton Sports & Fitness, is trying to change that. Starting this month he’s revamping the store’s swimwear department to not only carry popular swim brands Speedo and TYR, but more fashion forward looks from Gottex, Jantzen—even Dolce & Gabbana. Since they’re known for carrying “sportier” swimsuits, I asked Jelinek about the planned changes, and how they’ll market their “new” segment of fashion swimwear.

Q: When did you join Middleton Sports & Fitness? What had you been doing before and what attracted you to this job?
A: Prior to joining Middleton Sports in April of 2008 I was running my own company, which is a very part-time job that I continue to do. I also consult for a local publishing company as well as [work for] a property management company.
The opportunity was offered to me and the prospect of providing exceptional customer service and purchasing in the swim department while also facilitating new marketing and merchandising efforts with this locally owned company was very appealing. I’ve always been an advocate for small business and this was another way for me to become more involved with other local businesses.

Q: What do you do on a day-to-day basis? What are the responsibilities of your job?
A: Our customers come first—from our young customers who are on a swim team for the first time, to our in-store customers, to our customers from middletonfitness.com. Daily purchasing is also important to ensure that we have our most popular items and styles in stock and available, which includes special orders for customers. Oftentimes I travel to meet with our teams and large customers. Middleton Sports also has two traveling stores for our teams and customers as far away as Reedsburg, Milton, Johnson Creek and Iowa.

Q: You are introducing a new swimwear/cruisewear component to the swim department. Why did you decide to do this and what physical changes are you making to the store?
A: Middleton Sports has always been a leader in offering the widest variety of swimwear. With annual inventories of more than $250,000 in the springtime, we want to continue this tradition by offering an entirely new lifestyle feel to our customers. We will be changing the look in one section of our swim department to include different lighting and a more intimate feel to the store, which will include specialized training for our employees to ensure the best look and feel for customers.
The new component brings with it a potential to reach out to new customers while also providing customers with items that they would otherwise only be able to order online.

Q: What are you looking for in what you’ll carry in this new section? What brands will you carry?
A: We’re already working with some of the largest names in fashion swimwear including Gottex for women and Andrew Christian for men. We’re still working on negotiating a purchasing agreement with Dolce & Gabbana and hope to be offering their 2009 line by early spring for both men and women.

Q: What do you think the Midwestern shopper is looking for in swimwear that’s different from other parts of the country, and how is the store catering to that?
A: It’s been my experience that Midwesterners are looking for something that is stylish, but more importantly, fits their personality and something in which they will feel comfortable in any setting. Anticipation of these needs is driving us to purchase suits in all sizes for all shapes. Whether our customers are looking to accentuate a certain aspect of their figure or to draw attention away from other areas (as one of my good friends says, “If you can’t hide it, decorate it!”), we’ll offer something for everyone heading either out of town or to our local beaches and pools—including kids. In other parts of the country these suits or replicas of them are easily found and sometimes sizes are available; sometimes they’re not. But [these brands] are much easier to find. We intend to ensure the highest quality of swimwear to fit any individual’s style and comfort while making sure we have their size available. Special orders cost nothing extra to our customers unless there’s a rush. And if the suit doesn’t fit, the customer doesn’t pay.

Q: You also emphasized carrying suits that would appeal to the gay male. What are they looking for as swimwear consumers, and what brands will you carry?
A: Gay men are very particular about what they wear. They want to be fashionable trendsetters and are often early adopters to new styles in fashion. To this end, having the latest and greatest in what is being introduced to the market on the coasts and overseas is essential. We’ll offer Andrew Christian, Jocko and Dolce & Gabbana.

Q: What pieces are you most excited about carrying?
A: Gottex has a phenomenal line of swimwear for 2009 that will be very appealing to a large portion of our current customer base as well as college students. I think that this line will bring about a change in how women feel about their bodies. Particularly because this trend-setting company offers larger sizes that are extremely fashionable and accentuate the most appealing shapes in all sizes of the female form.
For men, I’m really excited about the Andrew Christian and Jocko lines. Nike is offering some new sporty looks that are sure to please our more mature client base as well. And when we get Dolce & Gabbana in, I’m sure we’re going to be quite busy.

Q: Any services or special offers you’ll be offering to the swimwear customers?
A: We’re going to start a mailing list for customers to receive coupons through email. Additionally, with the new lines, [we] will help customers get fitted properly and ensure that specific items are available to them when they are needed.
We plan to provide every customer with a very relaxed, comfortable shopping experience and are committed to helping customers to find something that they’re proud to put on their bodies—something that makes them feel proud of their body, no matter their size or shape. Vacation is about being comfortable and that’s what we aim to facilitate with what our customers wear.

Q: What is the price range of suits you’ll have?
A: For women, we’ll have separates and two-pieces starting from $39.95 up to more than $260 for separates and single-piece suits from Gottex.
For men, we’ll have suits starting at $39.95 for Nike, Speedo and Andrew Christian up to $180 for Dolce & Gabbana, when that line comes in.

Q: When will you have everything in?
A: The changes to the swim department will occur throughout the month of November. We’ve already started receiving Nike, Speedo and TYR cruise/beach lines. Andrew Christian, Jocko, Gottex, Perry Ellis, Jag, Jantzen and the others should start arriving in the first few weeks of November. Dolce & Gabbana will be arriving around February. New arrivals for all of these manufacturers will come in during October and February annually after our launch in early December 2008.

Middleton Sports & Fitness, 6649 University Ave. 836-3931. middletonfitness.com

Events

3rd Annual Atwood-Winnebago Winter Festival
When: December 5, 5–9 p.m.
Where: Particpating Atwood-area businesses like Absolutely Art, bad dog frida, Bunky’s Café, Café Zoma, Milio’s, Sugar Shack Records, Tex Tubb’s Taco Palace and more.
Details: Explore over twenty businesses in the Winnebago-Atwood neighborhood. Live music, free samples and door prize drawings will also be available!
More information: winnatwood.org

Holiday Jewelry Preview–Recession Beater Prices
When: November 15–26
Where: Fanny Garver Gallery, 230 State St.
Details: Handmade gold and silver jewelry, freshwater pearls and more will be in-store. With prices between $25–$250, prices are just right.
More information: 256-6755. fannygarvergallery.com

Indocara 3rd Anniversary Party
When: November 20–23
Where: Indocara, 540 W. Washington Ave.
Details: Have you been to Indocara? If you still haven’t gone, here’s your chance to check out this modern global furnishings wonderland. New items have just arrived! Celebration events throughout the day on November 20 include Cha Cha tea and cookies from 2–4 p.m., and a cheese and wine reception from 4–8 p.m.
More information: 251-7711. indocara.com

Premiere Couture Prom Sneak Peek Party
When: November 23
Where: Premiere Couture, 1921 Monroe St.
Details: For those attending Prom here’s a chance to check out the hot styles for 2009. Rate each design as “hot” or “not.” Snacks and prizes will be there, and one lucky girl will win a free prom dress. If Mom attends, she’ll receive a free gift, too. Pre-register for the 1 p.m., 3 p.m. or 5 p.m. time slot.
More information: email info@premierecouture.com to pre-register. 255-1921. href="http://www.Premierecouture.blogspot.com" target="new">premierecouture.blogspot.com

Ebony Fashion Fair
When: December 7, 8–10:30 p.m.
Where: Monona Terrace Convention Center, 1 John Nolen Dr.
Details: A fashion show you don’t want to miss: I attended last year and was totally wowed. This New York-style fashion show showcases the hottest designers in fashion today, like Roberto Cavalli, Anna Sui, Missoni, Vivienne Westwood and more. Proceeds from the event benefit The Madison Links Annual Student Recognition and Scholarship Program.
More information: Madison Links: 277-8548. ebonyfashionfair.com

What I Look for in Great Stores

Recently one of my friends asked me: “What do you do if you don’t like a store? Do you write a bad review?”

My answer to that: No, I don’t write a bad review (technically, I don’t do “reviews” at all…rather, columns, but that’s beside the point). Madison is a small city, and I’m not interested in putting down any stores that aren’t, well, top-notch. If anything, these stores just need some prodding in the right direction. Or, if they’re really terrible, customers won’t want to go in for some reason or another and the storeowner will eventually “get it.” What I won’t do: endorse a store that I’m not fully OK with sending magazine and blog readers to. If I strongly dislike a store or feel that their customer service isn’t excellent, I won’t write about it.

The good news: I’ve rarely encountered any stores and storeowners that I haven’t liked and that I haven’t felt were worth writing about. Although some people might lament that Madison is small, there are upsides to being small: forging a personal connection with your favorite storeowner and getting first pick on cool items are two shopping advantages. I once had a storeowner tell me that the reason their online store did so well was because online customers from the coasts discovered that the Midwestern stores were the ones to hit up because all of the really popular stores in the big cities sold out the popular denim brands so quickly—whereas stores like Detour in Milwaukee and Context in Madison, for example, had A.P.C. or Nudie Jeans in stock.
On to the topic at hand: stores I love. (Disclaimer: this list is not all-inclusive.)

Monroe Street Shoe Repair and Cecil’s Shoe Repair
As every fashionista knows, your favorite shoes and handbags don’t last forever. At least they won’t without a little—sprucing up—yes? That’s where these folks come in. I have frequented both of these places and they’ve always done a top-notch job. Handbag strap need to be reattached? Stiletto heel tip need to be replaced? These places deliver with fast, inexpensive results. Recently I bought an adorable pair of shoes but a snap on the strap was missing. Enter Cecil’s. I bought the tiny snap from next-door Jo-Ann Fabrics and brought it over to Cecil’s. He squinted at my shoe, scurried away and came back five minutes later with a fresh snap in place, my shoe ready to wear. When I offered to pay him, he waved his hand and said, “Just come back in another time. Don’t worry about it.”
Old-school customer service? You can’t go wrong with that!
Monroe Street Shoe Repair, 2612 Monroe St. 238-3171.
Cecil's, 6717 Odana Rd. 833-5010.

Fair Indigo
Fair Indigo’s execs founded the company with the belief that fair trade clothing can be made affordably and the people that make it can be paid a living wage. In other words, no sweatshops allowed. Although the company started out as a mail-order catalog, their only storefront is here in Madison—cool. If you’ve ever bought something from the store, not only is the staff in-store friendly, but the company follows up with you via email by asking how your store experience was. Plus you can look up in-store or on the website stories about the people who made each item—like their cashmere sweaters or a silver bracelet. It personalizes the shopping experience even more.
Products range from baby clothing and toys to clothing for mom and dad—plus accessories and bath and body items. Many are organic. All are fair trade.
Fair Indigo, 570 N. Midvale Blvd., 661-7662. fairindigo.com

Movin’ Shoes
I am not a triathlete. I do, however, fancy myself as somewhat of a runner—you know, the kind of runner that dabbles in a few miles per week, but nothing major. Nothing Ironman-worthy, certainly. The employees at Movin’ Shoes don’t care about that. They care about getting you fitted for the right shoe. I went there on a warm August day seeking new kicks. You see, my first shoe-buying experience there a few years ago was positive, so I went there once again.
Instantly, a friendly employee approached me and asked what I was looking for. She asked me to walk without shoes on to figure out if I walk inward or outward. Then she brought out quite a few pairs of shoes for me to try on that worked for my walking style. Our search yielded the perfect shoe and I purchased them. I even had a coupon for the place—and the employee (and the owner)—gave it back to me after applying the discount, saying I should come in again. And I was welcome to use the coupon again, too. I sure will!
Movin' Shoes, 528 S. Park St. 251-0125.

Patricia Shoppe
It’s obvious that Patricia Shoppe carries cute things. Their retro-chic décor and overall polished, classy pieces emanate good taste (at good prices!). What I like most, though, about owner Jessica Meyer is that she’s not just a savvy storeowner but a nice person. When I needed to borrow a steamer for a photo shoot, she lent it to me, no questions asked. We needed somewhere to shoot our November Style Sheet page and I thought of her store. Of course we could stage the shoot there, she said. When I needed to borrow some items (mannequins, among them) for a TV segment a few weeks later, Meyer dropped them off here at our building for our use.
Patricia Shoppe, 137 W. Johnson St. 256-1111. patriciashoppe.com

I probably have a nice story or anecdote to share about each interview I’ve had with local storeowners; far too many to share here!
If you’ve noticed a common theme amongst these stores, it’s that they all offer quality goods—with that crucial puzzle piece, friendly and knowledegable customer service. Many of them go above and beyond the call of duty to help their customers find exactly what they’re looking for—whether it’s running shoes, a recycled fleece coat or repairing a zipper.

News

Have you heard of Oompa? If you haven’t—you will soon. The child-friendly store opened in Middleton November 1, and it is, simply put, awesome.
Owner Milanie Cleere’s motto: “No batteries. No blinking lights. No cartoon-themed toys. Period.”
The store specializes in European children’s toys and room decor. Check out adorable all-natural wool stuffed animals, beautiful artwork, wooden toys and room décor, all for an uber-fashionable Junior. Heck, I don’t even have a child and I coveted many of the items because they were so beautiful.
Cleere founded Oompa.com in 2004 and she’d been running the business in L.A. After visiting a vendor in the Madison area a few years ago, Cleere and her husband fell in love with the area and moved here a year ago to open Oompa’s first storefront.
More on Oompa soon…
Oompa, 1970 Cayuga St., Middleton. oompa.com

Events

Dane Buy Local Fourth Annual Holiday Kick-Off Event
When: November 18, 8–10 a.m.
Where: Forrestal’s Gallery, 2904 Parmenter St.
Details: Mingle with Buy Local members! Just in time for holiday shopping the kick-off will feature holiday gifts, refreshments from Middleton restaurants and holiday music.
More information: danebuylocal.com

Holiday Earring Show
When: November 18–December 24. Opening: November 29, 5–8 p.m.
Where: HYART Gallery, 133 W. Johnson St.
Details: A show featuring over thirty artists from around the country and the UW School of Art. They’ll feature—you guessed it—earrings.
More information: 442-0562

Sarah’s Hope Jewelry Trunk Show
When: November 20, 11 a.m.–6 p.m.
Where: Goodman’s Jewelers, 220 State St.
Details: Meet owner and designer Sarah Smith, and see her new fall collection. Sarah’s Hope contributes ten percent of net profits to fund business micro-loans to women business entrepreneurs.
More information: 257-3644

Thursday Disco
When: Thursdays until Christmas
Where: Three Orange Doors, 2789 Fitchrona Rd.
Details: Save 10 percent on your entire purchase from 5:30–7 p.m. Wine will be served and the disco beats will be bumping. Christmas décor and jewelry and gifts will be available.
More information: 848-3336

Ladies’ Night with Champagne and Chocolate
When: November 21, 5–9 p.m.
Where: Chalmers Jewelers, 6202 University Ave.
Details: What isn’t going on? Chocolate and hors d’oeuvres. Chair massages by Haven Spa. A Fashion Show with items from J. LaMore, door prizes and a silent auction! Whew!
More information: 233-4700

MMoCA Holiday Art Fair
When: November 21–23. November 21, noon–6 p.m., November 22, 10 a.m.–5p.m., November 23, 11 a.m.–3 p.m.
Where: Madison Museum of Contemporary Art, 227 State St.
Details: Handcrafted, artful gifts from jewelry to décor and everything in between. Enjoy MMoCA’s current exhibtion while browsing!
More information: 257-0158, mmoca.org
(Photo: Renee Roeder Earley, Hats-O-Fancy, courtesy of MMoCA)